We
left Road Town on Tuesday at just before noon, after one last stop
at the internet cafe. We had a pleasant reach down Tortola in light
winds and calm seas, and then around the tip and over to Jost Van
Dyke. Our first stop
was Little Harbour (yeah, they all have the same names) also known
as Garner Bay. There are 3 restaurants in this harbour, competing
for the business of a few yachts. We picked up a mooring and went
over to Harris Place to pay for it. You land at the dinghy dock
in front of Sidney's Peace and Love, where the friendly people
help you tie up your dinghy and hand you a menu, point out their
souvenir clothing store, and try to get your business. They mostly
succeed. Lance made friends with the owner of Harris place, who
is in the process of building her own dinghy dock, but it's getting
done on Island time, and meanwhile she's dying for lack of business.
We decided to have some food at her place, but her menu had only
complete dinners, and our attempts to talk her into selling us
just soup and salad weren't effective, so we finally settled on
splitting a complete conch stew dinner. This is so far the best
West Indian food we've had. She made this wonderful split pea soup,
salad, garlic bread, |
tender conch stew,
rice and "peas" (red beans), and coleslaw. It was more than enough
for both of us. On Monday nights, she has a lobster special and
after listening to her describe it, we're coming back for that
one day. Caribbean lobsters
are huge, and often overcooked and dry. She boils it, then barbecues,
then puts it in the bbq oven with the butter sauce to steam it
and keep it moist and tender. My mouth is watering.
Sidney's has a nice hat that says, "Don't judge
a man by the size of his dinghy" but I didn't get one for Lance.
In the morning, with the calm seas, it was time to work
on the boat. We have used up enough diesel to finally replace the fuel filler
hose. This involved a lot of wrestling with the old hose to get it out, followed
by cooling swim, then several bouts of wrestling with the new hose, and more
cooling swims. The old diesel permeated hose is out of the boat, and another
insurance item is taken care of. We also found that the hose from the engine
compartment to the blower had fallen off, so we fixed that too. Meanwhile, all
the other boats moved on, and we were alone in the harbour. In the afternoon,
we moved over to Great Harbour, home of the infamous Foxy's Tamarind Bar, where everyone needs
to go. Foxy was at the microphone, telling all the same |
jokes and stories, and making fun of the tourists
as usual. One joke new to me: if you walk along the road, and you
see two potatoes, how do you tell which one is the prostitute?
It's
the one that says: "Idaho".
We went back over our
survey and to do list, and made a shopping list for the Budget
Marine in St. Thomas. We got a 30 day stamp on our passports, so
we have to get out of here in the next week. Everyone says supplies
are much cheaper in the USVI, so we're going shopping and then
we'll check out the anchorages. The shopping list is huge -- we
have some running rigging to replace, need fans, reading lights,
tools, etc. Meanwhile, a new item came to the top of the list: one of the water tanks leaks. When we finally
used up a tank and switched, there was nothing there. Lots of stuff
beginning to make sense -- why did we have that problem with water
in the bilge, that went away? We thought is was the leaky transom
shower, but now we think it was more than that. Bilge has been
really dry. |